I remember as a kid watching 50’s era Westerns where Native Americans created smoke signals as a way cool method of communication. Seen from great distances those unable to decipher the exquisitely placed plumes agonized about the meaning of them and the intent of those familiar with them. I remember being amazed that anyone could be so smart and resourceful to use smoke plumes as a language. Being seen and communicated with on the Internet is kind of a metaphor for smoke signals. Some years ago, I owned a brick and mortar custom jewelry studio and shop. I fondly remember decorating the shop, building displays and product, marketing, and proudly talking up my product and myself to whomever would listen. I made a lot of friends along the way. Many purchased a piece that I had built, others didn’t. All were interested enough to ask questions about my work, seek advice about gem purchases or ask how a particular piece was built and assembled. Sometimes, I feel much the same as an Internet entrepreneur attempting to make an acquaintance with anyone willing to make the effort to gather the tinder and ignite it.
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Hallmarks are traditionally issued by nations or governments to authenticate the purity of hand built or manufactured items containing precious metals sold to the public. These items may include: jewelry, watches, flatware or hollowware, to name a few. While hallmarks are not required for articles containing precious metals (gold, silver and platinum) manufactured or hand built in the United States, hallmarking in European countries has been required for centuries. France under Louis IX enacted the Goldsmith’s Statute of 1260 to provide a standard for silver. This decree was expanded to include gold standards in 1313, under Philip IV. Meanwhile in England, King Edward I required all silver to be assayed by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths in London’s Goldsmith’s Hall; hence, the name, Hallmark. Many European countries have specific benchmarks for the manufacture and sale of items built in silver, gold and platinum.
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The term carat is used to describe the weight of individual gems. Total weight, or total carat weight, refers to the combined weight of all like gems in a particular piece of jewelry. Carat weight is determined using the metric term milligram. 200 milligrams are equal to 1 carat. Why? In ancient times, traders needed a reliably consistent unit of measurement when bartering or purchasing gems. Some traders used rice grains, wheat grains, or carob seeds, depending on where they lived in the world. Because the weight of one carob or seed was essentially the same as any other carob or seed, traders felt confident using this unit of measurement wherever they found themselves in their travels. By the way, carob is an Arabic name for the seed, quirat. In future posts, we’ll learn why carat weight is only one consideration in the actual value of a gem. I hope you have enjoyed this post. Here are some links you might find helpful.
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As a goldsmith, I was taught to make my own wire and sheet using ingots and a rolling mill. If a part could not be fabricated efficiently, it was cast: first by carving an expendable wax model, and then cast in an expendable one-time mold, using karat gold or sterling silver. All of the finishing, polishing, and setting was done by my hands. I was and am proud to be a gold and silversmith. Over the years, many jewelry manufacturers have advertised their jewelry as being hand crafted, even though many elements were mass-produced and finished or set by machines with little human intervention. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), has determined that hand fabricated jewelry must be formed using sheet and wire.
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